All J. Adler custom, handmade shoes come with a full "pit-cured" hand welted leather sole. Pit cured leather involves a process of adding tanning agents to liquid pits that hold the leather for up to 18months as the proteins of the leather slowly and delicately maintaining the proteins structure thus giving the leather its breathable, flexible, yet strong leather.
This sole provides a much more wearable, comfortable shoes.
At ADLER we offer a glued on "rubber sole" which not only improves your shoes performance in very wet weather, but extends the life span of the leather sole. The glued on rubber sole is easily replaced by any cobbler and does not interfere with the breathability of the full leather sole. ADLER shoes are of all leather construction with a strong leather hand-welted insole in our Blake stich or hand Goodyear welt. If treated correctly, they will last for many years with the all leather upper developing a beautiful patina.
This provides a light, flexible sole. The Blake stich leaves no room to hide anything so the stitching must be perfect and any imperfections will be felt on the foot so only a perfect welt is accepted by the master shoes maker. This ensures the best possible end product. The hand stitched Blake stich creates a knot on each stich ensuring that the welt is secure and long lasting. The cobblers twine is hand rubbed with bees wax to provide a water tight welt. The Black stich is preferred as it is light and flexible.
The Pros – Because it is a simpler construction than a Goodyear welt, it is also less expensive. It is a process that allows for resoling once the outsole is worn or damaged. Blake welting is also superior when seeking a close-cut sole. Because there are no exterior stitches, the body of the outsole can be cut extremely close to the upper. Lastly, because it has fewer layers than a Goodyear welt, a Blake-welted sole is more flexible.
Goodyear welting is the oldest, most labor intensive, and most durable of the three methods of construction. It can be done by machine or by hand and involves multiple steps. The first part of the process is preparing the insole for stitching. This is done by creating a perpendicular “rib” that runs across the insole. J Adler shoemakers create the rib by hand cutting and sculpting the insole, while others will use a cheaper machine method by using a supplementary material like linen tape.
The second step is to last the shoe. This is done by stretching the upper leather over the last and attaching it, along with the insole, to the last.
Part three is the actual welting. At this point a shoe-specific thread is sewn through the welt, the upper, and the insole rib. Through a separate stitch, the welt is attached to the outsole. For both of these stitching points, a lockstitch is used – meaning the chain won’t unravel if it breaks down at any particular point in the shoe.
The Pros - The two-level stitching makes it incredibly easy to re-sole a Goodyear welted shoe. Because the welt acts as a buffer between the insole and the outsole, removing the old sole and attaching a new one can. The extra layers make the shoe more water resistant and supportive.